The single-most important component of success in starting your seed outdoors (or, indeed in growing anything in the garden!) is proper preparation of the soil. Most plants do best in soil that is open, rich and fertile. You can start by turning the soil over to a depth of at least 6 to 8 inches (12 to 15 inches is even better!) with a spade or spading fork. Break up clumps with a rake or mechanized tiller, and remove stones and debris.

To make sure soil is workable, take a handful of it and squeeze it into a ball. Drop it onto the ground, and if it doesn’t break up, the soil is too wet; it should crumble after squeezing if it is friable enough. Wait a few days and try again. If you work soil that is not ready, the texture will be ruined.

To improve your seed bed, spread an inch-thick layer of peat moss, compost or leaf mold over the bed and rake it into the top two inches of soil as level as possible. The soil additives will not add a lot of fertility to your soil, but they will condition it and make necessary bacteria available. Be sure not to walk on the seed bed after it is prepared, as this will compact the soil and hamper root development. If you have to walk over soil to access planting areas, keep to a path that borders where you will plant, but avoids where the seed will be placed.

If soil pH is a problem for you, (most plants need a soil pH near 6.5, which is slightly acid), then you can use lime to raise the pH or acidifying fertilizers or mulches like pine straw to lower it. If you use hydrated lime, which is quick acting, apply it a couple of weeks prior to planting and water it well. This will lessen the chances of the lime burning your emerging young plants. Crushed limestone is much slower acting and longer lasting in its effect. It requires a heavier application, but can be used after planting without danger to the plants. Many people like to use dolomitic limestone, which contains a trace of magnesium.

If you have heavy clay soil, it can be improved by breaking it up and adding organic matter, gypsum, or vermiculite to improve drainage. Coarse builder’s sand can also be added, but you should not do so unless you add lots of organic matter, too. Clay and sand make bricks, after all!

Finally, you can spread and mix fertilizer into your soil. A slow release fertilizer is best, for one application will last all season, and you don’t risk burning your plants.